[lens]

Originally Posted by DCTepper

I am going to investigate tonight, to say there is nothing you can do to prevent breakage may be a stretch, where there is a will, there is a way. For example, depending on clearance, why couldn't one use band clamps, wire, and/or foil tape to wrap the pipe in the weaker areas to prevent expansion? It is clear the weakest point is at the throttle body, where most breakages occur, but I have also seen splitting at the mounting bracket as well. I will keep everyone updated on what I come up with.

This has been going on for a while, if you could do something, I'm sure someone would have posted it on here saying "if you want to save money, instead of replacing your PLASTIC CP with a METAL one, you can do this"

To be honest, if you're getting JB4 stage 2, I would just fork over the money and get the ER CP, less problems in the future when it does go, and you won't be cursing as you're stranded, there's a reason why I did my tune last, I bought ER CP and TIC CP to get rid of any worry about plastic things breaking. The very first rule for tuning a car is safety the parts that break first, but I've noticed people are either too cheap or stubborn to, and that common part that breaks, actually breaks on them and they complain about it.


If money is tight, wait for a used one to pop up @ half price.

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by chaungo

This has been going on for a while, if you could do something, I'm sure someone would have posted it on here saying "if you want to save money, instead of replacing your PLASTIC CP with a METAL one, you can do this"

To be honest, if you're getting JB4 stage 2, I would just fork over the money and get the ER CP, less problems in the future when it does go, and you won't be cursing as you're stranded, there's a reason why I did my tune last, I bought ER CP and TIC CP to get rid of any worry about plastic things breaking. The very first rule for tuning a car is safety the parts that break first, but I've noticed people are either too cheap or stubborn to, and that common part that breaks, actually breaks on them and they complain about it.


If money is tight, wait for a used one to pop up @ half price.

This ^^ . All solid advise....


.

[2blu]

Been running JB4 + DP on stock charge pipe with no issues after 2.5 years. As others have reported, it can happen on a totally stock car.

[DCTepper]

So here is my ghetto prevention method, a strip of rubber and two hose clamps. The leftmost hose clamp is directly around where the clip is, where most failures occur, while the other is around the plastic weld, where others have indicated failures occur. While I realize this is not a permanent fix, it gives me a little more confidence that, IF the CP were to fail, it would not be as catastrophic as if there were nothing there at all. I will also carry an emergency fix kit with me (i.e. duct tape, zip ties, hose clamps), just in case. If this doesn't work I will humbly admit defeat.

[lens]

Originally Posted by DCTepper

So here is my ghetto prevention method, a strip of rubber and two hose clamps. The leftmost hose clamp is directly around where the clip is, where most failures occur, while the other is around the plastic weld, where others have indicated failures occur. While I realize this is not a permanent fix, it gives me a little more confidence that, IF the CP were to fail, it would not be as catastrophic as if there were nothing there at all. I will also carry an emergency fix kit with me (i.e. duct tape, zip ties, hose clamps), just in case. If this doesn't work I will humbly admit defeat.

I don't believe it's a good idea as, if the plastic part cracks or explodes, the pieces instead of going OUT of your throttle body is now going to implode in, and your throttle body will now suck in all the broken plastic from the chargepipe if it were to go.

You're basically only reinforcing the outside of the chargepipe, where you're supposed to reinforce the inside+outside (hence metal as it won't compress or expand unless it's superheated) and you can run as much boost as your turbo can handle.

I mean, it's your car, do what you want, but do you REALLY want to be cheap on a safety part for a 50,000$+ car?

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by chaungo

I don't believe it's a good idea as, if the plastic part cracks or explodes, the pieces instead of going OUT of your throttle body is now going to implode in, and your throttle body will now suck in all the broken plastic from the chargepipe if it were to go.

You're basically only reinforcing the outside of the chargepipe, where you're supposed to reinforce the inside+outside (hence metal as it won't compress or expand unless it's superheated) and you can run as much boost as your turbo can handle.

I mean, it's your car, do what you want, but do you REALLY want to be cheap on a safety part for a 50,000$+ car?

This is one of the biggest concerns with a failure. Sure it sucks to be stranded on the road but the bigger issue is the engine ingesting a part of the charge pipe. As mentioned about exposing out is much better then exploding into the engine.

Mike

[DCTepper]

It is my understanding that what causes the failure of the charge pipe is its inability to withstand the additional pressure. By reinforcing the weak point, how can it fail at that particular point? Unless it is being blown off away from the throttle body versus expanding outward away from it. I guess time will tell.

[lens]

Originally Posted by DCTepper

It is my understanding that what causes the failure of the charge pipe is its inability to withstand the additional pressure. By reinforcing the weak point, how can it fail at that particular point? Unless it is being blown off away from the throttle body versus expanding outward away from it. I guess time will tell.

You're putting a RUBBER piece over a PLASTIC piece. Last time I checked, Rubber compresses and expands, and plastic is brittle over time. If you run higher boost more than the OEM CP can handle, it's going to still expand and the CP will still fail, except now, the explosion will happen inwards instead of outwards as you have that rubber piece holding everything inside.

[DCTepper]

Originally Posted by chaungo

You're putting a RUBBER piece over a PLASTIC piece. Last time I checked, Rubber compresses and expands, and plastic is brittle over time. If you run higher boost more than the OEM CP can handle, it's going to still expand and the CP will still fail, except now, the explosion will happen inwards instead of outwards as you have that rubber piece holding everything inside.

It is unable to expand due to the two hose clamps, the rubber is only there to distribute the force of the hose clamps more evenly, it is not an integral part of the support structure.

We could explore all hypothetical situations, the vendors will continue to tell you to buy an aftermarket pipe to drum up more business, those who have drank the kool-aid will justify their purchase by supporting the purchase of an aftermarket piece, and then there are those who have been running stock pipes for a while now without any issue. Many perspectives to be viewed, but it is unlikely that we will all agree.

I get it, buying an aftermarket pipe is insurance, but when my only option is nearly twice as much as everyone else's, it forces me to re-evaluate the need and seek out alternative solutions, that's all. Came here for support, not to be cross-examined. I got what I needed, thank you everyone who contributed.

[cryptocar]

Originally Posted by DCTepper

It is unable to expand due to the two hose clamps, the rubber is only there to distribute the force of the hose clamps more evenly, it is not an integral part of the support structure.

We could explore all hypothetical situations, the vendors will continue to tell you to buy an aftermarket pipe to drum up more business, those who have drank the kool-aid will justify their purchase by supporting the purchase of an aftermarket piece, and then there are those who have been running stock pipes for a while now without any issue. Many perspectives to be viewed, but it is unlikely that we will all agree.

I get it, buying an aftermarket pipe is insurance, but when my only option is nearly twice as much as everyone else's, it forces me to re-evaluate the need and seek out alternative solutions, that's all. Came here for support, not to be cross-examined. I got what I needed, thank you everyone who contributed.

You're not being cross-examined, per se, people are trying to help you by letting you know your solution is actually increasing the risk of a catastrophic engine failure that cannot be warrantied since it would be directly attributable to your handi-work.

Just friendly advice from someone who didn't "drink the kool-aid" and actually had a charge pipe failure before buying my ER pipes.

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by chaungo

You're putting a RUBBER piece over a PLASTIC piece. Last time I checked, Rubber compresses and expands, and plastic is brittle over time. If you run higher boost more than the OEM CP can handle, it's going to still expand and the CP will still fail, except now, the explosion will happen inwards instead of outwards as you have that rubber piece holding everything inside.

This ^^

Like chaungo has stated, your rubber sleeve solution could possibly allow for shards to enter the throttle body

.

[zerreissen]

Mine blew on stock boost. The only mod I had was a cat-less down-pipe. Luckily it blew less than a mile from the house. If I were you, I'd go ahead and upgrade the charge pipe now...

[Buckeyes]

I talked to a guy who knew a guy from college who went to school with a guy that said that the cars built in SA have a much stronger plastic CP. Estorial Blue cars have the strongest charge pipes in the entire BMW lineup.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Trcb777

I talked to a guy who knew a guy from college who went to school with a guy that said that the cars built in SA have a much stronger plastic CP. Estorial Blue cars have the strongest charge pipes in the entire BMW lineup.

I know that guy too

Mike

[Bmw doubles]

I've ran tunes and piggy backs with psi ranging 13 - 21 driven aggressively, long road trips and stop and go all on stock CP. never blown a stock CP, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. I've ran stage 1 and 2 tunes so far so good. Carry duct tape in the trunk just in case

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by DCTepper

Thank you all for your replies, this gives me a bit more confidence. I will likely upgrade at some point in time, but don't want to spend the money now if I don't absolutely have to. In the meantime I will routinely inspect my stock charge pipe to make sure there are no cracks and/or find a way to reinforce the weak points (i.e. tape, band clamps, wire, etc), as ghetto as that may be.

Honestly there is no reinforcing it. We took cryptocar broken charge pipe and brainstormed over it to see if we can mod it.

It breaks at the plastic weld and once it seperates there is no going back as the lip is too small and unrepearable. We have his and his retainer clip even broke.

I guess figuratively speaking you can get some black duct tape and do like 8 loops around the CP and the throttle body and it wont pop off after it breaks.

This brings me to my next comments and point.
Modding these cars or "any" cars comes with risk and reward. This is a known weak point for us that are pushing well over 16psi and I am not going to chance getting stranded on the side of road due to the CP blowing.

Stage 1 you should be ok with your tune but its a hit or miss. Is the ER piece pricey? Yes...but its more then just a hollow metal tube...

-piece of mind
-2 weld bungs for meth
-no flexing (throttle response imminent)
-price is subject to what it is as its the cost and development of it.

you think the price is expensive for the piece, unless you are handy in tight spaces and have a place to work and access to tools, this is hands down a PITA to install. Get ready to dish out another $200 bucks or more.

Honestly if you are under warranty, and just have JB stage 1, I would not bother. Take off the JB if it fails and have it towed to BMW.

Good Luck and hope this helps

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by chaungo

This has been going on for a while, if you could do something, I'm sure someone would have posted it on here saying "if you want to save money, instead of replacing your PLASTIC CP with a METAL one, you can do this"

To be honest, if you're getting JB4 stage 2, I would just fork over the money and get the ER CP, less problems in the future when it does go, and you won't be cursing as you're stranded, there's a reason why I did my tune last, I bought ER CP and TIC CP to get rid of any worry about plastic things breaking. The very first rule for tuning a car is safety the parts that break first, but I've noticed people are either too cheap or stubborn to, and that common part that breaks, actually breaks on them and they complain about it.


If money is tight, wait for a used one to pop up @ half price.

Agree with all said points and Ill add this and beating this subject to death since the arrival of N55 F30 is for the search button

The THROTTLE response improvement alone is worth the upgrade! A $375 part....I am not going to lose any sleep over it. Lag is a BITCH...period. TO me anything that minimizes it, eliminates it is a win in my book.

If anyone wants to "out of warranty" they can help them selves to the nearest BMW dealer and kindly fork over $700+labor or so dollars for the same shit OEM one...end of story.

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by DCTepper

It is unable to expand due to the two hose clamps, the rubber is only there to distribute the force of the hose clamps more evenly, it is not an integral part of the support structure.

We could explore all hypothetical situations, the vendors will continue to tell you to buy an aftermarket pipe to drum up more business, those who have drank the kool-aid will justify their purchase by supporting the purchase of an aftermarket piece, and then there are those who have been running stock pipes for a while now without any issue. Many perspectives to be viewed, but it is unlikely that we will all agree.

I get it, buying an aftermarket pipe is insurance, but when my only option is nearly twice as much as everyone else's, it forces me to re-evaluate the need and seek out alternative solutions, that's all. Came here for support, not to be cross-examined. I got what I needed, thank you everyone who contributed.

Well this cool aid sure as hell tastes good...better throttle response, running meth and having an additional bung, plus itll never break...well I guess Im justifying my purchase for risking on pushing this car faster....and I have not even thought about my charge pipe in the last year because it will stay in one piece, Ill keep the glass in case I want to drink some more

Most of us here are to help each other..take what you can and make it work how you need it for you. I dont think anyone here is trying to criticize your enthusiasm for wanting to figure out a way to reinforce the part. We all wish there was something cheaper...but as YOU and ME and the rest of this community have jobs. I dont have time to dick around my garage and figure out a solution, waste my time and loose family quality time..barely have time to install this on cars. I need 18psi...I spent the money and its there.

This game has always been called ''you gotta pay to play"

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by dd1981

Well this cool aid sure as hell tastes good...better throttle response, running meth and having an additional bung, plus itll never break...well I guess Im justifying my purchase for risking on pushing this car faster....and I have not even thought about my charge pipe in the last year because it will stay in one piece, Ill keep the glass in case I want to drink some more

Most of us here are to help each other..take what you can and make it work how you need it for you. I dont think anyone here is trying to criticize your enthusiasm for wanting to figure out a way to reinforce the part. We all wish there was something cheaper...but as YOU and ME and the rest of this community have jobs. I dont have time to dick around my garage and figure out a solution, waste my time and loose family quality time..barely have time to install this on cars. I need 18psi...I spent the money and its there.

This game has always been called ''you gotta pay to play"

This ^^

.

[ocN55]

If you message mike from xph, I'm pretty sure you won't pay the $375 retail price.

Also a few hundo for piece of mind might be worth it. It can't be healthy always being scared that you'll blow your cp every time you go into boost

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by ocN55

If you message mike from xph, I'm pretty sure you won't pay the $375 retail price.

Also a few hundo for piece of mind might be worth it. It can't be healthy always being scared that you'll blow your cp every time you go into boost

+1

Its not that expensive of a mod in the long run and its in the low 300s from many vendors as most have them for 10% off.

I always tell my customers that a charge pipe should be on the list of mods once you start modding. We probably ship (overnight) 1-2 a week to people who have blow theirs and are stranded.

Mike

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

+1

Its not that expensive of a mod in the long run and its in the low 300s from many vendors as most have them for 10% off.

I always tell my customers that a charge pipe should be on the list of mods once you start modding. We probably ship (overnight) 1-2 a week to people who have blow theirs and are stranded.

Mike

Shit I think I paid $285 for mine during the xmas promo.

In either case it's not that expensive IMO...prob the cheapest mod besides some little cosmetic bits..