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      11-05-2017, 02:07 PM   #1
giraffewt
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Angry Low pressure fuel pump failure

Had a "Drivetrain malfunction, Drive moderately" warning light and car lost power on the highway in 5mins. Towed to dealership and low pressure fuel pump was replaced.

Car is 2013 328i with ~50,000 miles.
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      11-14-2017, 02:27 PM   #2
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me too

Happened to mine too around the same time
2013 N20 ~60K during that time

I too had to have it towed.
They replaced it since I was still under warranty.
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      11-14-2017, 02:55 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giraffewt View Post
Had a "Drivetrain malfunction, Drive moderately" warning light and car lost power on the highway in 5mins. Towed to dealership and low pressure fuel pump was replaced.

Car is 2013 328i with ~50,000 miles.
My 2013 was replaced twice under 10k miles.
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      11-15-2017, 06:29 AM   #4
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Same exact failure for my 2012 328i at 70k miles. The total repair cost was $1200 but my extended warrany covered it.
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      11-17-2017, 04:32 PM   #5
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Just curious...Any indication as to the root cause of failure? Did the pump itself fail or maybe the hoses cracked causing drop in pressure/insufficient fueling? Do we know what the weak point of the LPF pump assembly is?
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      11-17-2017, 07:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F30328iN202013 View Post
Just curious...Any indication as to the root cause of failure? Did the pump itself fail or maybe the hoses cracked causing drop in pressure/insufficient fueling? Do we know what the weak point of the LPF pump assembly is?
It’s not the pump that’s failing if it’s the same issue.

A sensor is failing.

Sensor in pump and no way to repair.

Thus LPFP is replaced because of the sensor.
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      11-20-2017, 10:17 AM   #7
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So theoretically the pump continues to do it's job, and this is just the sensor.
So the question, can you continue to drive for a bit?
Is it an easy DIY?
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      12-14-2017, 05:57 PM   #8
giraffewt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor80 View Post
So theoretically the pump continues to do it's job, and this is just the sensor.
So the question, can you continue to drive for a bit?
Is it an easy DIY?
Sensor down pump down.

Fixed by the dealer. Out of BMW warranty but covered by California Emission Warranty.
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      12-27-2017, 02:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giraffewt View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor80 View Post
So theoretically the pump continues to do it's job, and this is just the sensor.
So the question, can you continue to drive for a bit?
Is it an easy DIY?
Sensor down pump down.

Fixed by the dealer. Out of BMW warranty but covered by California Emission Warranty.
Sucks to see you all go through this issue. And 1,200$ that's a load of shit. You shouldn't have went to bmw. It takes no longer than 45 min to remove and install a lpfp. Shit i even purchased a stage 2 lpfp that's an upgraded version of the stock oem for 300$ and 45 min of labor. You got robbed if your fuel pump goes out upgrade it with a stage 2 and have a local BMW mechanic hook u up. It's a 45 min job

Edit*****
I must have overseen that you were covered under warranty. Glad you got it all straightened out.
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      12-27-2017, 03:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giraffewt View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor80 View Post
So theoretically the pump continues to do it's job, and this is just the sensor.
So the question, can you continue to drive for a bit?
Is it an easy DIY?
Sensor down pump down.

Fixed by the dealer. Out of BMW warranty but covered by California Emission Warranty.
CA has a 7 year warranty not sure if it is unlimited miles or 70k on emissions related parts. Looks like this is happening on early F30s when they were still sorting out gremlins with the new ASS. (Auto Start Stop for newbies, not a negative reference lol)
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      09-26-2018, 04:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giraffewt View Post
Had a "Drivetrain malfunction, Drive moderately" warning light and car lost power on the highway in 5mins. Towed to dealership and low pressure fuel pump was replaced.

Car is 2013 328i with ~50,000 miles.
I had the exact same issue last year after BMW repaired my LPFP on my 2013 335i. My car stalled out of no where and towed to the dealership. Now the Dealership is saying that the reason my car stalled is because of the "built" in fuel sensor is failing on the left side of the tank and my gauge is reporting inaccurate fuel readings. Car stalls around 1/4 tank of fuel left, this doesn't happen all the time but mostly on longer road trips. They quoted me $1,900 for labor and a new fuel tank! Anyone know how I can diagnose this issue myself to make sure its the sensor and not the pump? I have accessed the hidden cluster functions on my dash and have been monitoring how many liters are in each side of the tank, just don't know what to do from here.
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      09-27-2018, 09:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Britton View Post
I had the exact same issue last year after BMW repaired my LPFP on my 2013 335i. My car stalled out of no where and towed to the dealership. Now the Dealership is saying that the reason my car stalled is because of the "built" in fuel sensor is failing on the left side of the tank and my gauge is reporting inaccurate fuel readings. Car stalls around 1/4 tank of fuel left, this doesn't happen all the time but mostly on longer road trips. They quoted me $1,900 for labor and a new fuel tank! Anyone know how I can diagnose this issue myself to make sure its the sensor and not the pump? I have accessed the hidden cluster functions on my dash and have been monitoring how many liters are in each side of the tank, just don't know what to do from here.
Well, if it's giving you inaccurate readings, then it's the sensor. It's on the LPFP, so the best process would be to get ISTA+ and run tests through there. That would help confirm the sensor and if you want to pull the pump, it's under the rear passenger seat. You will need the ring tool or some sort of makeshift one to unlock it. You could honestly replace your entire LPFP with a Stage 2 LPFP from Fuel it for $300 give or take $100 depending on what option you choose.
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      09-28-2018, 12:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Well, if it's giving you inaccurate readings, then it's the sensor. It's on the LPFP, so the best process would be to get ISTA+ and run tests through there. That would help confirm the sensor and if you want to pull the pump, it's under the rear passenger seat. You will need the ring tool or some sort of makeshift one to unlock it. You could honestly replace your entire LPFP with a Stage 2 LPFP from Fuel it for $300 give or take $100 depending on what option you choose.
So what they told me about the other sensor being "built into the tank" is not true? Is there only one sensor that's built into the LPFP or is there truly another sensor that is not replaceable unless the tank is replaced?
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      09-28-2018, 04:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Britton View Post
So what they told me about the other sensor being "built into the tank" is not true? Is there only one sensor that's built into the LPFP or is there truly another sensor that is not replaceable unless the tank is replaced?
Ah, no. There does appear to be one built into the tank that can only be replaced with the tank. Not every model has two, but it seems yours does. The real question would be whether or not it's that sensor or the LPFP one.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...lines/GzyMyOJv
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      09-28-2018, 04:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Ah, no. There does appear to be one built into the tank that can only be replaced with the tank. Not every model has two, but it seems yours does. The real question would be whether or not it's that sensor or the LPFP one.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...lines/GzyMyOJv
Thanks for that link, its very informative. Do you know how to diagnose which sensor is failing?
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      09-28-2018, 04:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Britton View Post
Thanks for that link, its very informative. Do you know how to diagnose which sensor is failing?
ISTA+ would be your best bet. You can find/request it in the coding section of the forums.
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      10-01-2018, 09:49 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
ISTA+ would be your best bet. You can find/request it in the coding section of the forums.
Update: I ran my car this weekend until it stalled. I put in 5 gallons of gas because I was in a hurry and couldn't fill up all the way. Yesterday after burning those 5 gallons up, I filled my car up right before it stalled and could only get a max of 11.2 gallons. Any suggestions? I don't think its the sensor because if it was and it truly was empty, I would have put in around 15 gallons.
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      02-20-2023, 04:07 AM   #18
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LPFP upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by M2_MEDUSA View Post
Sucks to see you all go through this issue. And 1,200$ that's a load of shit. You shouldn't have went to bmw. It takes no longer than 45 min to remove and install a lpfp. Shit i even purchased a stage 2 lpfp that's an upgraded version of the stock oem for 300$ and 45 min of labor. You got robbed if your fuel pump goes out upgrade it with a stage 2 and have a local BMW mechanic hook u up. It's a 45 min job

Edit*****
I must have overseen that you were covered under warranty. Glad you got it all straightened out.
Any idea if the n20 lpfp/upgrades will fit on b48? Currently aren't any that exist for my car right now and mine just failed, out of warranty
On the verge of selling the car because of it lol, there isn't a single oem or oem+ direct replacement in existence, and my brand new car has been rendered useless for the past month
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      02-20-2023, 08:48 AM   #19
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Look it up on realoem.com to find the OEM part number. It will tell you all of the models it was used in. An aftermarket replacement that works in one will work in all. BTW, you should have a B46.That's the US version of the B48.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=16_0871
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      02-20-2023, 03:59 PM   #20
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Get bmw parts

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...mp-16117243975

$347
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